Want a free Heidelberg Castle tour? Learn Japanese
Heidelberg is gorgeous. This university town along the Neckar river dates back some 2,400 years, and has been one of Europe’s great academic hubs since 1386. Though Heidelberg Castle was my primary destination, I first set off for the “Philosopher’s Way” – a high trail overlooking the old city. It has been traversed by the likes of Eichendorff, Hölderlin, and Nobel laureate Johannes Jensen.
A Beautiful Ruin
Eventually I descended along some steep stairs and stone paths which brought me to the magnificent Old Bridge. Then I crossed to the Baroque old town and back up more stairs leading to the castle, which loomed on top of a hill. This was my first time visiting a German castle, and I was awed by the Renaissance architecture; much of it had been left as untouched ruins. Mark Twain describes the castle far better than I can:
A ruin must be rightly situated, to be effective. This one could not have been better placed. It stands upon a commanding elevation, it is buried in green woods, there is no level ground about it, but, on the contrary, there are wooded terraces upon terraces, and one looks down through shining leaves into profound chasms and abysses where twilight reigns and the sun cannot intrude. … Misfortune has done for this old tower what it has done for the human character sometimes – improved it.
– Mark Twain, A Tramp Abroad
Perché no?
Despite being so impressed, I was not convinced to pay for an expensive tour ticket. Instead I opted to wander around the historic grounds myself, taking in all I saw. Lo and behold, I soon stumbled across a group of Japanese tourists and their guide. I had studied Japanese for several years back in high school, and was delighted at this opportunity to get some practical use out of it. So I snuck into the back of this tour group, as conspicuously as a 6’4″ white guy could.
And to my surprise, I understood most of it. While following them I learned about the mysterious footprint depressed into one of the stone walkways, supposedly from a knight jumping from above to escape a fire in the castle. Later we saw the giant 265 year-old, 220,000 litre wine barrel. A small sculpture of the court jester Perkeo guarded the room; He was so named after his typical response when offered more wine at court events: “perché no?” (“why not?”). Born in the Italian region of south Tyrol and affected by dwarfism, Perkeo may have inspired the Game of Thrones character Tyrion Lannister!
Occasionally some of the elderly tourists would glance behind at me. “Sono senotakai otoko wa dare? Nihonjin janai” I overheard one woman say – “Who is that tall man? He is not Japanese…”
I pretended not to hear them, not that they expected me to understand, but it must have been quite puzzling!
The Reveal
The tour ended and the Japanese visitors dispersed to the nearby restaurants and cafés. Finally I decided to speak to the tour guide.
“Sumimasen” – Excuse me…
She turned around. I will never forget the brief look of surprise on her face as she realized I spoke the language! But she quickly regained her composure and we talked as if there was nothing unusual. This woman came from Tokyo, but she married a German man and now made living giving tours in Heidelberg. I was very proud that, a few years out of practice, I was still able to hold a conversation.
After admiring the views from the castle, I then walked down the hill past some very nice houses, into the traditional German town square. In another multicultural twist, that day ended in an Irish pub with some new Swedish and American friends, but that’s a story for another time!
